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Herd WebMaster
Forum Admin
USA
165 Posts |
 Posted - 04/13/2007 : 2:51:13 PM
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SLP Header Installation
By Brad Oblak
(This is meant to be used along with the manufactures instructions)
1. you will need the following tools: Grinder or file, Assorted deep well and regular sockets, a variety of different sized extensions (needed to reach some bolts or clear obstructions),full set of metric and standard box wrenches(The body of the 10 mm box wrench would not clear the header tube. The 3/8 fit fine and cleared.), I had to buy a 1" box wrench for the air pump fittings, I have no idea how a torque wrench would fit in the limited space so not needed,One or more floor jacks and jack stands(I would not use ramps because it is easier to work on the top of the engine with the car on the ground. Once on the ramps, you can't get it down until the car is finished.),Knife to cut heater core hoses, Channel locks, pliers, anti seize compound, sewing thread (used to temporally attach gaskets to the header for ease of install and lining up bolts) and Rope or twine for holding up cats.
2. Disconnect the battery
3. Jack up the car and crawl underneath
4. Unbolt the cat assys from the exhaust.
5. Use ropes or twine to support the cat. assys. so that they are not being held up by the wires on the sensors.
6. disconnect the cat. assys. from the manifolds. I wouldn't bother trying to unplug the O2 sensors unless doing the export pipes.
7. Do not remove all the spark plugs unless you want to. Only the #8 plug needs to be removed.
8. Remove the EGR tube from the pass. side manifold.
9. Lower the car.
10. Remove air tubes from the manifolds and EGR tube located at the back of the intake.
11. Remove Belt and unbolt alternator and slide forward.
12. Remove the 3 bolts and plugs on the wiper motor so you can push it out of the way.
13. Remove the exhaust manifolds.(I think you can get at all the bolts from on top. The back 2 on each side may need to be accessed from underneath.)
14. Take one strand of thread per bolt hole and tie the gaskets to the header flanges. This will save you a lot of time trying to line up the gaskets. The thread will burn away.
15. Remove heater hoses and trim off 1-1.5" of hose. You need to do this]]] It will keep the hose from melting on the header.
16. Work Pass side header into place. Install the 2nd bolt from the front finger tight, then the 4th bolt. Reinstall the alternator and serpentine belt. Install the rest of the bolts and the long alternator bracket minus the back 2 which will need to be accessed from below. Do not tighten the bolts until ALL are installed. (I did not use the small bracket. I could not get it to fit. If you can use it. You will need to grind a flat spot on the factory spacer to allow clearance of the header tube. Reinstall the Wiper motor bolts.
17. Install the Driver side header. This is the easy side. FIRST install the 2nd bolt back finger tight. Now install the rest minus the back 2 which will be accessed from below. Do not tighten the bolts until ALL are installed.
18. Jack up the car and crawl underneath.
19. Remove the #8 spark plug.
20. Install the remaining bolts on the pass side header and tighten them. Reinstall the spark plug.
21. Install the remain bolts on the driver side header and tighten.
22. Bend the EGR tube to the approximate shape needed to route it from the pass header to the back of the intake. Then attach the tube to the header and second, the back of the intake. Make sure the tube is not touching the valve cover or anything else. I used the orange heat shield on the wiper motor wires because they were close to the tube.
23. Reconnect the air tubes to the headers.
24. Jack up the car and reconnect the cats or export pipes to the headers and the exhaust system. I used a LONG extension to reach up to the bolts.
25. Lower the car.
26. Check the level of your coolant. You will probably need to add some and will definitely need to bleed the system.
27. Look to make sure nothing is touching the headers and that no tools are left in the engine compartment. Wipe the blood off the header tubes (It bakes on and is hard to clean, believe me, I know)
28. Now the best part. Cross your fingers and Fire it up. Check for leaks. If you have a header leak, turn it off quickly and fix it. Don t let it run too long so that you do not damage the gasket.
29. Bleed the coolant. (See manual)
30. Drive the car for a while (20 minutes or so) and then let it cool and re tighten the bolts. If you do not do this you will probably loose a bolt or two. I drove mine too long before re tightening and lost one of them.
Problems you may encounter:
The biggest problem will be rusty nuts and bolts. Soak them for a week or so with rust eater and you may not have a big problem. I have 6 or so bolts to drill out and tap since I did not do this well enough. If you are disconnecting the O2 sensor plugs, Have fun. The back two are located above the trans. I broke the clips holding the plug to the car because I could not get at the connector with my hands. I simply pried it loose with a screwdriver and then was able to reach the plug and disconnect the sensor. In my case, my export pipes did not line up. I had a rough time forcing them to since I did not have someone helping me. I was told that the factory spacer should have fit, Mine did not. I had a Gasket drop down on me and got the dreaded the tit tit tit noise from the connection. Easy to fix, but time consuming. The thread should eliminate this problem. Do these steps in the order stated. I did not. As a result it took me MANY more hours than necessary. Over all, I would not hesitate to do this again. Hardly any fabricating or relocating is required. |
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SLP Header Installation
