|T O P I C R E V I E W
||Posted - 04/12/2007 : 1:07:37 PM
1. Use a voltmeter to reads the ohms from the chip in your key by placing one lead on one side and the other lead on other side of the chip.
2. After determining your ohmage, get resistor(s) that equal the ohmage you need.
Ex: Mine was 1.1 Kohm. So I got a 1 K resistor and a 100 ohm resistor.
3. If you only need one resistor, go on to step 4. If you need multiple resistors, tie the resistors together as a chain link. DO NOT lay them side by side and twist together. A little solder will help hold these together.
4. Unplug the harness (above) located under the steering column. Insert one end of the resistor chain into one hole of the [prpl/wht & blk/wht] harness leading to the module. Then plug the other end into the other hole. The snugness of these wires may not be sufficient so hold them in place with some electrical tape.
5. Insert you key and attempt to start your engine.
If it works: The car will crank and the Pass Key Fault LED will go out. So then cover the resistors with tape and do not allow them to touch each other w/ the exception of the solder spot. Zip-tie the wires out of the way so they won't get snagged by anything else. After you do this be sure it still works and that you haven’t altered anything in the process of cleaning up.
If it doesn’t work: The car will not crank and the Pass Key Fault LED will blink repeatedly or will stay on. If it blinks repeatedly, you are not getting a connection. Get a second hand to turn the key while you hold your resistors in place. Keep trying until it works or the LED at least stays on even though the car may not crank.
If it works, see above. If it doesn’t…..cry like a baby. Just kidding, it will be because your ohms are off. Be sure your voltmeter is working properly (if you have one with a needle, make sure it is set at 0 with your adjustment knob) and then double-check your ohmage from the chip in your key. Then repeat procedure.
*By chance, the car cranks but the LED stays on. It is because your ohms are slightly off. In other words, it is sensing that your key chip is losing its “luster” and that you need a new one but it’s going to crank anyways. You do not need a new key, but you do need to recheck your ohms and repeat the process.
Note: I went ahead and cut the 2 white wires and soldered in the resistors. It made for a perfect connection. BUT I made sure I had the correct ohmage and that it worked before I went ahead with it.
Problems?: Email me at firstname.lastname@example.org Special thanks to NyteTyme and RepoSSesser for all the help! Much appreciated!